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Leather and Iris : The timeless duo in perfumery

Leather and iris notes have long been pillars of fine perfumery. Synonymous with elegance and strength, these noble materials have stood the test of time, shaping some of the most exceptional fragrances ever created.
Iris in perfumery: a valuable raw material
A lengthy and meticulous extraction process
Iris is one of the most precious and costly raw materials in perfumery, largely due to its complex and time-consuming transformation process. Before it can be used, the rhizome must be dried for two to three years, allowing its fragrant molecules to fully develop. Unlike other flowers, which yield essential oils, iris undergoes a distillation process that produces "iris butter"—a soft, slightly waxy substance with a delicate scent.
Highly sought after for its refined olfactory facets, iris lends an air of sophistication and elegance to perfumes. As a result, it remains an exclusive ingredient, reserved for luxury fragrance houses.
Leather in perfumery: an emblematic accord
A mastered process
Contrary to what one might assume, leather is not a naturally extracted essence in perfumery. Instead, its distinctive aroma is meticulously recreated in laboratories through a blend of natural and synthetic ingredients. Key components used to evoke the scent of tanned leather include styrax, cedar, and smoky, resinous notes, all of which help replicate its raw intensity.
A leather accord in fragrance brings a dry, warm, and deeply sensual dimension. It is often enhanced by floral notes, which add contrast and elegance. In recent years, the combination of iris and leather has paved the way for more intense and exclusive olfactory creations, where strength and refinement intertwine with remarkable subtlety.
The fusion of Leather and Iris: a Renaissance legacy
A Historic alliance
The pairing of iris and leather dates back to the Renaissance when these two elements were used together to soften and elevate the bold scent of leather. A well-known anecdote tells of Catherine de' Medici, who, upon bringing Tuscan iris to France in the 16th century, popularized its use by perfuming her leather gloves with its delicate, powdery aroma. More than a mere trend, this practice was a way to balance the potency of leather with a refined floral note.
This harmonious blend has since endured in the world of perfumery.
In Cuir Andalou, iris plays a pivotal role: it "reveals" the depth of leather by softening its robustness while introducing an element of airy refinement. The fusion of iris and leather creates a mesmerizing olfactory symphony, where the floral note balances the boldness of leather, giving birth to an unexpectedly complex fragrance. Inspired by Andalusian traditions, this combination beautifully merges the historical legacy of iris in perfumery with the noble character of leather.